PROPOSED 
TOBEATIC WILDERNESS AREA ADDITIONS
The Tobeatic:  Time to finish the job
BackgroundWhitesand Stream

At 104,000 hectares, the Tobeatic Wilderness Area in southwestern Nova Scotia is the largest protected wilderness in the Maritimes.  “The Toby” and the adjacent Kejimkujik National Park together protect 142,000 hectares of softwood dominated woods with many barrens and wetlands.

The best way to discover the Tobeatic by canoe.  When people paddle into this wilderness they usually disappear for days.  Exploring the dozens of remote lakes and the rivers, streams and old Indian paths linking them would take much longer.  Many of the traditional canoe routes were made famous by Albert Bigelow Paine’s renown 1908 book, The Tent Dwellers.  Like today’s visitors, the adventurers during Paine’s time followed routes that had been known to the Mi’kmaq for centuries.

Glaciers have also left their mark on the Tobeatic, as much of the terrain is littered with granite boulders and crisscrossed by eskers.

Due to its inaccessibility and its size, the Tobeatic remains a stronghold for Nova Scotia’s only population of native moose and several other mammals including black bear, bobcat, river otter, and the rare pine martin.  Until the early 1900s caribou roamed here too.  The Tobeatic also provides a home for the threatened Blandings Turtle, and at least four species of endangered or threatened plants.

After four previous failed attempts, the Province finally afforded legal protection to most of the Tobeatic in 1998.  However, concessions to 
industry and overly-rigid selection criterion caused several key portions of the Tobeatic wilderness to be excluded from the protected area.  Extensive road building and clearcutting on adjacent private timberlands owned by JD Irving Ltd. and Bowater heighten the urgency for more protection.Tobeatic Wilderness Area Proposed Additions Map

Priority additions to the Tobeatic Wilderness Area proposed by the Tobeatic Wilderness Committee and the Ecology Action Centre are as follows:

Area 1: Eighth Lake 400 ha
Area 2: Whitesand Stream 800 ha
Area 3: Lake Franklin 300 ha
Area 4: Sisketch Lake 3,500 ha
Area 5: Indian Fields Road 600 ha
Area 6: Napier River 4,700 ha
Area 7: Roseway Lake 80 ha
 

Eighth Lake
Gateway to the Tobeatic (Part 1)

After putting in at Lake Joli and completing a short portage through the woods to Ninth Lake, the arrival at Eighth Lake gives the traveler time to reflect on their first taste of the Tobeatic.  Nearly everyone accessing the Tobeatic Wilderness Area from the Bear River side passes through the Eighth Lake block.  The block encompasses a chain of four small undeveloped lakes that must be traversed as the paddler works their way down the Sissaboo River system to Whitesand Stream.  It contains red spruce dominated woods.  The other lakes are called, appropriately enough, Ninth Lake. Seventh Lake, and Sixth Lake.

Although this site is just 400 hectares, it needs to be protected to retain the wild character of the Tobeatic’s main access point.  You know what they say about first impressions…
 

Whitesand Stream
Gateway to the Tobeatic (Part 2)

This 800 hectare block lies adjacent to the Tobeatic Wilderness Area’s northwest border, nestled between Whitesand Stream and Sporting Lake Stream. Both streams lead into the deep wilderness.  To prevent deforestation and fragmentation adjacent to the Wilderness Area, and to preserve the historic appeal of the Tobeatic for backcountry recreation it is crucial that the Whitesand Stream lands be put off limits for logging.
 

Lake Franklin
Maybe next time

Sadly the Department of Natural Resources allowed JD Irving Ltd. to log this 300 hectare intrusion into the Tobeatic “finger”.  When the company is through stripping these public lands of timber we want them to leave for good.  Rip up the road and give this land a break.


Sisketch Lake
Wilderness within a Wilderness
MAP Moonrise at House Lake

From the air the Siskech Lake lands look like a big boot stomping rudely into the east side of the Tobeatic Wilderness Area: 3,500 hectares of vulnerable “small w” wilderness almost completely surrounded by protected area.  Kejimkujik National Park borders the site to the north.  The Siskech Lake lands boast several old white pine – red spruce forest stands, access to a dozen undeveloped lakes, and over ten kilometres of woods on the Shelburne and Roseway River canoe routes.

The block’s exclusion from the Tobeatic Wilderness Area puzzles traditional users of the area.  These lands were part of the former Tobeatic Wildlife Management Area and anyone familiar with the area would consider them to be part of “the Tobeatic”.

The Province claims they omitted Siskech Lake because it contained roads. But the roads haven’t been used for years, and to our delight they are starting to grow over (some have disappeared!).  Try telling people who have canoed or walked the Siskech area that these lands aren’t wild enough.  They will tell you - many of them passionately – about the old pines on Irving Lake, the huge bear and moose tracks they have followed, the hoots of barred owls heard through the night sky, or of the evenings spent at camp patching up their canoe in hopes that, maybe tomorrow, the rapids on the Shelburne River will be more forgiving.

Make no mistake about it, the Siskech Lake block is wild country.  It needs to be in its rightful place, where it always belonged, in the Tobeatic Wilderness Area.

Size and Location:
The Sisketch block consists of 4000 ha of de facto wilderness surrounded by protected areas. Its exclusion from the Tobeatic Wilderness Area, which lies adjacent to its east and southwest borders has always puzzled traditional users of the area. Almost the entire block is within the limits of the Tobeatic Wildlife Management Area, and anyone familiar with Sisketch Lake and adjacent waterways would consider the region to be part of what has traditionally been referred to as "the Tobeatic". The block is bordered by Kejimkujik National Park and Bowater Mersey's timberlands to the north and northeast. By straightening the boundary of the Tobeatic to include this block - a major access point - management and enforcement of law in the area may be made much easier.

Description:
According to recent correspondence between the Tobeatic Wilderness Committee and the provincial government, the Sisketch Lake block was not recommended for protection because the selection criteria disqualified lands fragmented by roads. These roads are rarely used and are growing over. The bedrock is dominated by Devonian granite, while older Meguma rocks (Goldenville Formation) underlie the northeastern portion of the site. Upon these rocks lies a layer of silty till deposited by receding glaciers about 12 500 years ago.

DNR's forest inventory documents several potential climax forests of white pine and mixed conifers (including eastern hemlock and red spruce). There are certainly immature old growth white pine stands around Irving Lake and probably through the block. These older stands, with old-growth characteristics make the value of this land for conservation and recreation impressive. The block's value to foresters, on the other hand, may be limited. Irving Lake and Great Pine Lake are included in the block in their entirety. Sisketch, Junction, Little Pine, and East Bingay Lakes all have shoreline included in the block.

Outstanding Natural Features and Opportunities:

  • Large mammals (moose, black bear)
  • Shelburne River - a Canadian Heritage River
  • Neighbouring protected areas
  • Old growth white pine
  • Aboriginal history
  • Traditional canoe-way
Threats:
  • Degradation of wilderness quality for recreational users
  • Logging of old growth stands
  • Stress through hunting to sensitive large mammal populations
  • Fragmentation of protected areas with clearcuts and roads
  • Damage to habitat and vegetation by ATVs, road building, and forestry
  • Destruction of places potentially significant to Mi'kmaq people
Large Mammals:
Due to its historic inaccesibility and its size, the Tobeatic is a stronghold for NS's only population of native moose and several other mammals including black bear, bobcat, river otter, and possibly the rare pine marten. There are black bear hibernacula in the block, including one near Indian Lookoff. Moose have been observed during aerial surveys in high densities around Junction Lake. Over a hundred pine marten were released a few years from Kejimkujik National Park and may use stands of old-growth forest in the block.

Aboriginal History:
The name Sisketch may come from the Mi'kmaq word skidagamoog which refers to ghosts. Some people believe that there may be possible burial grounds on islands in House and Sisketch Lakes.

Recreation:
The interior of southwestern NS has been a destination for outdoor recreation since the 1800s. Through the late 1800s and early 1900s guides took tourists hunting, fishing, and canoeing throughout the Tobeatic. Experiences of canoeing in the Tobeatic were made famous by Albert Paine's book, The Tent Dwellers, first published in 1908 and recently reprinted by Nimbus Publishers in Halifax.

The Shelburne River Management Plan proposes five wilderness campsites in this block. There are already several primitive camping sites whose locations are stumbled upon by lucky campers or passed on by word of mouth. Portages are also primitive, some with trees marked since the days of the Tent Dwellers.

The Tobeatic is a canoeist's paradise, and includes the Shelburne River which was designated as a Canadian Heritage River in 1997. The traditional Roseway Route through the Sisketch block takes canoeists from Kejimkujik National Park down the Shelburne River to Irving Lake, west through Sisketch, House, and Junction Lakes to the Roseway River and Shelburne. The Tobeatic Route leaves Sand Lake and follows the Tobeatic Lakes west through to the Roseway River.

Logging in or around wilderness areas used by nature enthusiasts canoeing or hiking to Indian Lookoff could have several negative impacts. Increased runoff following logging would hamper recreational canoe use, barren landscapes and changes in wildlife populations would decrease the asthetic value to campers.

The Tobeatic:
The Tobeatic is 104 000 ha, the largest protected wilderness area in the Maritimes. It accounts for over a third of the land protected by Nova Scotia's 31 new Wilderness areas. The Tobeatic lies adjacent to the west side of Kejimkujik National Park. Together, the two areas cover 142 000 ha, one of the largest protected blocks of land on the eastern coast of North America.

The southern portion of the Tobeatic was originally designated a Game Sanctuary, and later a Wildlife Management Area. Later on, the Province attempted to pass legislation to protect the area. In 1998 the Province finally designated most of the Tobeatic as a Wilderness Area, under the new orivincial Wilderness Areas Protection Act.

Despite all this, the job of protecting it is not finished. The area is surrounded by large expanses of timberland that hasn't been harvested intensively until recently. Extensive road building and clearcutting, ATV traffic, and poaching all threaten the prisitine and compelling nature of this block, and indeed all of the Tobeatic Wilderness. Protecting the Sisketch Lake block is also crucial to maintaining the wilderness character of the Tobeatic and the Shelburne River.


Reprinted from the Halifax Daily News ©
Saturday, February 26, 2000

Roads threatening remote lake area
Siskech Lake lacks protection
By David Redwood -- Spaces at stake

INVADING ALDERS and ruts that can stop a monster truck are not enough to keep old logging roads from doing the job they've done so well for years - threatening the Tobeatic wilderness.

Siskech Lake

  • WHAT: 3,500 hectares of Tobeatic barrens and forest.
  • WHERE: Wedged between Tobeatic Wilderness Area and Kejimkujic National Park.
  • THE ISSUE: Logging roads, ATV access and forestry.
  • AT STAKE: Canoe routes on Shelburne River, moose and bear habitat adjacent to 142,000 hectars of protected wilderness.
  • Decades ago, roads near Irving, House and Siskech lakes helped loggers. In 1998, the mostly overgrown access was one reason the province didn't protect 3,500 hectares of land some people say is now worth saving again.

    The boot-like area - shaped like a mini-Italy - borders a popular canoe route on the Shelburne River, a federally designated heritage river.

    Paddlers can explore giant rocks displaced by glaciers, and mature softwood forest stands.

    Wild and wooly'
    "The whole area down there is kind of wild and wooly," said Jim Todd, a member of the volunteer Tobeatic wilderness committee. He said paddlers can start in Kejimkujik National Park and stay in the wilderness until they reach the Atlantic five or six days later.

    "It depends how fast you like to paddle and how much rum you like to carry," he jokes.

    But Todd and others weren't laughing two years ago. That's when the province left out one side of the stream linking these lakes when it designated 104,000 Tobeatic hectares off-limits to forestry, mining or road-building.

    The reason? The ecosystem was mainly young forest and marred by the logging roads.

    David Dagley, of the Queens County Fish and Game Association, said the boundary should be extended. Dagley is concerned logging one side of the river would make for faster spring runoff. Without trees, the soil would be unable to release water slowly, and the streams would become too shallow to paddle earlier each spring.

    "You should take the boundary to the top of that watershed, to the top of the hill," he said.

    A Department of natural Resources spokeswoman said no timber licences and mineral claims are granted. However, the area's legal status means timber could possibly be cut in the future.

    Nova Scotia's Environment Department is concerned. In a July 1999 letter to the committee, then-environment minister Michel Samson said the excluded land is "critical to the effective long-term management of the Tobeatic Wilderness Area particularly to ensure quality wilderness travel opportunities and to control motorized-vehicle access."

    Loss of habitat
    Parks Canada is also interested. Keji is already handling 11,000 visitors a year and coping with air and rain pollution. The loss of habitat adjacent to Keji will place more stress on black bears and moose that roam the park.

    Todd believes letting the logging roads fall into deeper disrepair is a step towards eventual legal protection.

    "Let's retire the road and let nature take its course," said Todd.


    Indian Fields Road

    Indian Fields Road 
    The 66’ solution
    MAP

    Roads and wilderness don’t mix.  Roads bring habitat fragmentation, edge effects (parasitism, predation, and windthrow), illegal dumping, exotic species, and access for poachers and off-road vehicles.

    Yet the current boundaries of the Tobeatic Wilderness Area run inexplicably up one edge of the Indian Fields Rd. and down the other, an almost 15 kilometre intrusion into the heart of the Tobeatic.  The road, which begins at Route 203, leads past an unprotected 1,000 hectare inholding all the way to Silvery Lake.

    ATV damage to the Tobeatic is increasing exponentially, much of which may not heal itself in our lifetimes. Keeping this road open only to access camp leases in the interim will allow the destruction to continue. TWC estimates that within another 2-3 years, ATVs will have reached the most remote and roadless areas in the Tobeatic, and its unique character will be lost.

    As is, the road is a management nightmare, and has made it impossible to police and enforce Department regulations.The threats posed by the road and the inholding can be eliminated if the Province extends the boundary of the Tobeatic Wilderness Area just 66’ across the Indian Fields Road, absorbs the large Crown block, and exchanges the private inholding with land of equal value and potential outside the boundary.

    TWC recommends that the trailhead for the Tobeatic Wilderness Area be established at Upset Falls on the Roseway River, and that motorized access beyond that point be denied.


    Napier River
    The one that got away

    The proposed Napier River addition to the Tobeatic Wilderness Area encompasses roughly 4,700 hectares of public forest along the headwaters of the Napier River.  It lies adjacent to the Wilderness Area’s western border and contains more productive forest than what is typically found in the protected area, including many stands of old conifers.

    The Province carved off 1,400 hectares from the future Tobeatic Wilderness Area here in 1997 to fulfill a generous wood supply commitment to JD Irving Ltd.  In return for wood at Napier River, the company “agreed” not to log the public lands at the Tobeatic “finger”.  As is custom, the Department of Natural Resources negotiated the wood allocation behind closed doors and with little thought to how cutting rights would compromise protected areas planning.

    JD Irving Ltd. has temporarily agreed to stop harvesting in the portion of this block within a mile of the former Nova Nada monestary.  The company advertises the site as the “South Carrying Road Lake Wilderness Area”, but it has no legal protection.


    Roseway Lake

    The Province acquired this small parcel adjacent to the Tobeatic Wilderness Area in 1998.  This property includes about two kilometres of frontage on the Roseway River system.
     

    For more information on proposed additions to Nova Scotia's Protected Areas Systems Plan, visit the Ecology Action Centre's Integrated Resource Management website, and learn more about our province's Endangered Hot Spots.


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